Appayon: A welcome addition to Dhaka’s food scene
The hole-in-the-wall restaurant is a great place to grab a hearty and filling meal that does not empty your wallet
Who does not love to eat good food at a budget price? In this economy, when dining out can break the bank, finding affordable, tasty options is decreasing rapidly. So, when we first heard about a restaurant in Mirpur selling Bangla cuisine with a new twist, we were excited.
Onward to Appayon Hotel and Restaurant
The restaurant is located at Benarasi Palli in Mirpur-10. When we reached there, we found a small, hole-in-the-wall shop. There were claypots on an open-air coal pit outside. The pit looked simple, and the fire was burning red. The fragrant smell of beef filled the air.
It was 4pm in the afternoon, and it was certainly one of the lull times for any eatery. But here, people were standing in lines inside to get a seat, which is always a good sign.
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The bhorta spread
As we asked to try a bit of everything from their menu, they served a whole spread of local food that consisted of steaming hot rice, polao, bhuna khichuri, tomato bhorta, dried and crushed prawn bhorta, spinach, and beef red curry.
We dug in. The plain rice with bhortas and shaak was great. That day, it was kolmi spinach (Ipomoea aquatica or water spinach).
The dried and crushed prawn bhorta was interesting too. It had a unique texture from the dried prawns being crushed with garlic and onion paste. The bhorta has a distinct prawn-like smell, and it went well with the rice. Among everything, the tomato bhorta was the one that did not stand out.
Polao and beef red curry
The polao cost only Tk50. It was not sticky, oily or dry, fulfilling the criteria for good polao. There was the faintest scent of ghee, even though I was not expecting it to be there. Pairing it with the beef red curry was a good choice.
The beef was cut into bite-sized pieces, then cooked to perfection. The chef had clearly mastered the art of cooking beef until tender. The curry was spicy and flavourful. For an average person, the spice level was perfectly balanced. It was Tk200.
Khichuri
The bhuna khichuri was a bit too salty and dry for my taste. However, it was cooked with mustard oil, so that is another plus-point.
We were advised to pair the tomato bhorta with the khichuri, and we were not disappointed.
The khichuri was only Tk50. So expecting much from it would not be prudent.
Handi beef
We were served the handi beef last. Their unique handi beef, a beef stew slow-cooked with 52 spices over charcoal in claypots, had created a buzz in the local food scene, sparking polarising opinions from foodies.
We were pleasantly surprised by the sweet, fragrant smell up close. It looked delicious. The beef looked succulent, and there was a whole garlic bulb in the broth. We devoured it with polao.
"Which one do you think is better?" I asked my companion.
"This one," he said, referring to the handi beef. And I agreed.
There was an explosion of flavours. It was spicy, smokey, and slightly sweet. And for Tk220, this beef is a perfect bang for your buck.
Doi
Finally came the dessert — doi or sweet yoghurt.
I had asked where the doi was sourced from, to which the manager replied, "We have our own farm in Sirajganj. We get it from there."
Even though I did not buy the answer, I did buy the doi. Whether it is really sourced from Sirajganj or not, it tasted well.
Overall, the food experience was good in Appayon. Even though the food was satisfactory, the general cleanliness of the handwashing area can be improved.
