Arfatul Islam’s journey to make a name for Bangladeshi cuisine
His book “The Culinary Canvas of Bangladesh”, which showcases the uniqueness and richness of Bangladeshi cuisine, has been praised for its depth and authenticity
Arfatul Islam landed in the UK during the Covid-19 pandemic in February 2021 to pursue an MSc in International Tourism and Hospitality Management at Ulster University. Initially, there was concern over whether he would make it in time, as flights were irregular.
Despite the uncertainty, he eventually arrived and had to undergo a mandatory 14-day quarantine. However, this was only the beginning of his challenges. He soon began to question whether he had made the right decision to study in the UK.
"Coming from Chattogram, a city full of people, business, and commotion, it was very tough. Everything was closed — I felt like I had come to the woods. No people around, no shops open," Arfatul recalled.
On top of everything, he needed to find a job to support himself. Fortunately, his skills as a chef came to his rescue, allowing him to start working on his 15th day in the UK.
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Growing up in Rangunia, Chattogram, Arfatul discovered his passion for cooking at a young age, eagerly assisting his mother in the kitchen.
"The aroma of lovely dishes from the kitchen would always draw me. To eat fresh from the oven, I started helping my mother — that's how my cooking journey began," he reminisced.
His book, The Culinary Canvas of Bangladesh, showcases the uniqueness and richness of Bangladeshi cuisine and has been praised for its depth and authenticity.
"I used to love food, especially dining at restaurants. And eventually, in 2012, after completing my SSC, I started watching cooking videos on YouTube," he said.
But Arfatul also had a business mindset. He started a business at an early age. Tech-savvy, he founded a computer training academy named ABCD Academy after his SSC, which he eventually expanded into a printing press. He employed those he had trained, and his business flourished, allowing him to continue his education alongside his entrepreneurial pursuits.
But his fascination with cooking never waned. "I used to watch Gordon Ramsay and other cooking channels, and I loved trying different restaurants," he said. "One day, I suddenly decided I wanted to study something related to food."
After taking his university admission test, he was offered a place to study Bangla at Chattogram University, but he wanted to chart a different path. So, he decided to take a gap year. One day, he noticed a billboard advertising a BBA in Hotel, Tourism, and Hospitality Management (HTM) at Southern University.
"I got excited," he recalled. Around the same time, he came across a magazine mentioning a six-month certificate course in Food and Nutrition offered by The Peninsula Chittagong hotel. Both opportunities struck a chord with him.
Arfatul enrolled at Southern University and began practical training at The Peninsula. After his first semester, the university arranged a visit to the Radisson Blu hotel in Chattogram, where students were sent to work as "on-call casuals."
After several visits, his dedication was noticed, and he was offered a job at the Radisson. He primarily worked in the pastry and bakery section as well as at the front counter.
"I started at Southern University in 2016, and by 2017, I was working at the Radisson," he shared.
By the time he graduated, the pandemic had struck the country. But he had set a goal to go abroad by 2020. He sold his ABCD Academy to fund his plans. Although his family was willing to support him, he preferred independence. He still has a printing press business, PrintView, in Andarkillah, Chattogram.
For his master's, he set his sights on the UK. "After receiving offers from a few universities, I chose Ulster University, as it was well-regarded for my field of study."
During quarantine in the UK, despite the closure of many institutions and the scarcity of jobs, some restaurants were offering takeout, so chef positions were still available, and luckily, he secured a job.
In May 2021, when the government allowed restaurants to open for outdoor dining, he saw an opportunity and applied to more jobs. "But I received a job offer I hadn't even applied for — through LinkedIn, where I was actively connecting with chefs. I was connected to renowned chef Michael Deane, who offered me a position."
He later joined the Marriott Hotel in Belfast, where Jean-Christophe Novelli, a top French chef now featured on Australian MasterChef, had a restaurant.
"I got an interview call, showcased my knife skills, and was offered the job," he said. "I learned a lot in that kitchen, as the restaurant specialised in modern French and Irish cuisine."
On the academic front, things were going well. "In 2022, when I graduated, I was at the top of my class, and the university even featured news about me," Arfatul said. This exposure led to a job offer from a Gordon Ramsay restaurant in London.
"In 2012, I was watching Gordon Ramsay's videos. By 2022, I received a job offer from one of his restaurants without applying — just through my university profile." Unfortunately, visa complexities prevented him from continuing there.
However, he was referred to an Italian restaurant, Aqua, where he joined as a sous chef and was quickly promoted to head chef. "My IT knowledge from my early career in computer training helped me at the management level."
While working at Aqua, he also worked on a research paper about food safety. He began writing books during his time at Novelli's restaurant. He realised that many Indian restaurants in Northern Ireland were owned and run by Bangladeshis, including the chefs. Yet, they marketed themselves as Indian, which he saw as an identity crisis.
"I wrote The Culinary Canvas of Bangladesh to establish an identity for Bangladesh's culinary heritage. I also wrote another book titled Food Safety Level 3, which is currently under revision. This well-researched book could find its place in many kitchens, as chefs need it. I want people to know our story and our country's name through my books," said Arfatul.
While running Aqua, a wealthy family offered him the head chef position at Roys Restaurant, a struggling establishment. "In eight months, we were awarded Best Restaurant at the Welwyn Oscars," he said. He has been working there for a year, and "we are mostly fully booked," he said happily.
Besides that, many chefs from Bangladesh reach out to him, especially those facing challenges in various countries like the Middle East, due to a lack of proper training. To support them, he invests in training sessions.
He has a YouTube channel with over 28,000 subscribers and has shared around 500 videos. His website features some paid courses, but "for Bangladeshi chefs reaching out to me, I make them free. As a 'Level 7' chef, I love to mentor." As part of his MSc primary research, he finished Cookery Level 7 in the UK and is now working on his PhD.
The Culinary Canvas of Bangladesh
The book extensively captures the essence of Bangladeshi cuisine, offering a nuanced exploration of its diverse menu. Spanning 13 chapters, it features colourful and mouth-watering food presentations. The book is designed to be so user-friendly that even those unfamiliar with Bangladeshi cuisine can quickly learn from scratch.
In the first chapter, Arfatul introduces all the spices used in Bangladeshi cooking, providing both English and Bangla names. For instance, when introducing cumin, he includes the Bangla word "Jeera" in brackets. The second chapter guides readers through grinding, roasting, and pestling spices in the traditional Bangladeshi style.
The book is not just packed with recipes though; it also contains various commentaries offering insights into Bangladeshi food habits and culture. The author uses Bangladeshi names in some recipes, such as "Bhapa Pitha," to promote the distinct local flavour.
He also discusses the nutritional value of different ingredients. While Indian and Bangladeshi cuisines can be similar, Arfatul highlights the subtle differences that make Bangladeshi recipes unique. The book itself resembles a well-organised, graphically attractive menu catalogue.
While sharing recipes, the author includes some chef's special tips for certain dishes. The book covers the full spectrum of Bangladeshi food habits, from juices and bhortas to vegetables, beef, and pitha. It also features basics like cha, bakorkhani, masoor daal and popular dishes like hilsa recipes, tehari, and fuchka. A chapter towards the end is dedicated to sweet savouries.
Published in October 2023, the book offers a rich understanding of Bangladeshi cuisine and includes recipes for readers to try. It is priced at Tk750 but is available for Tk670 on Rokomari.
All profits from the book's sales in Bangladesh are donated. "We use the profits to feed people and support the helpless. For example, we fed three madrasas last Ramadan and donated for medical assistance."
He receives many requests to translate the book into Bangla, but he intends to spread Bangladeshi cuisine to an international audience, so he is not considering a translation at the moment.
"If I can distribute my research on food safety to all kitchens and renowned chefs in the UK, it would be a significant achievement as a Bangladeshi writer. I see potential here because this area lacks research," he said.
Regarding his future plans, Arfatul shared, "My brother and his family are in the Middle East, but I want to settle in Bangladesh eventually.
"By 2030, I want to make an impact on the country's cuisine, ensuring that our ingredients and dishes, like Sajer Pitha and spices like Pachforon, are recognised as Bangladeshi, not Indian. We have lost our identity, and I want to restore it," he concluded.
