Kacchi Biryani: from conquerors’ table to wedding staple
This special dish travelled through centuries and empires, according to historians, to become a favourite in today’s Dhaka
If you find yourself at a wedding in Dhaka, especially in old Dhaka, chances are the star of the feast is Kacchi Biryani. This dish involves layering cooked or raw meat with rice and spices and then slow-cooking it in a sealed pot. The result is a delicious meal with tender meat and aromatic rice.
Kacchi Biryani is more than just a dish; it's a special treat. It's a symbol of Bengal's rich cultural heritage, blending Mughal and Persian.
Biryani found its way into the heart of Dhaka through the influence of the Mughals. In 1610 AD, the Mughal rulers designated Dhaka as the provincial capital. Subsequently, Mughal Subahdars and various high-ranking officials flocked to Dhaka, many of whom hailed from Lucknow.
They didn't arrive alone; they brought their skilled cooks with them. Consequently, the culinary delights of Lucknow permeated every nook and cranny of Dhaka.
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Initially, these delectable dishes were exclusive to the royal court and the homes of bureaucrats. Over time, this exclusivity waned, and delicacies like biryani and kebab gradually made their way into the households of common people.
However, Kacchi Biriyani's beginnings are shrouded in uncertainty, with historical tales connected to its creation. Some say it arrived in India with Timur, the Turko-Mongol conqueror in 1398. To provide nourishment for Timur's army, a mix of rice, spices and available meat was packed into a bone and then cooked in a pit.
Others claim it was born during the rule of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Awadh in 19th-century Uttar Pradesh, India. The Nawab's chefs crafted this biryani style by layering raw meat with partially cooked rice, slow-cooking it to perfection.
Yet, some historians argue that Kacchi Biryani predates the Mughal era, originating from the Chagatai people of Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. They had a preference for red meat, especially mutton, and developed a special dish using red meat, rice, and various ingredients like butter, pepper, salt, cardamom and nutmeg.
Fast forward to today's Dhaka. The tale of Kacchi Biryani's inception in Dhaka dates back to 1939 with Haji Biriyani. What began as a small venture with just one pot of biryani quickly burgeoned due to its unparalleled taste.
Now, Dhakaiya Kacchi Biryani proudly holds a place from street-side shops to high-end restaurants and every big occasion.
