The art of making your own outfit from scratch
Amid mass-produced fashion, a new wave of designers and artisans are reviving the art of bespoke outfits, blending tradition with personal touch
In the summer of 2024, the spotlight at the 77th Cannes Film Festival was stolen by a 23-year-old fashion prodigy, Nancy Tyagi. Her stunning entrance was marked by a pastel pink gown, a masterpiece she had painstakingly hand-stitched, using over 1,000 metres of fabric.
Nancy's story began far from the glitz of Cannes, in the quiet village of Barnawa, Uttar Pradesh. What started as playful haul videos and quirky dances in 2020 soon evolved into a serious passion for fashion design. With a natural flair and relentless dedication, she quickly attracted a loyal following on YouTube, where she shared her journey of creating outfits from scratch.
Her big break came when Brut India invited her to showcase her talent at Cannes. Now, as an internationally celebrated fashion icon, Nancy embodies the timeless allure of bespoke fashion—a tradition deeply rooted in the subcontinent, where creativity thrives in local markets and tailoring shops, far from the world of luxury designers.
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TBS ventured into the local world of custom outfits—made from scratch, connecting with fashion-conscious individuals, designers, tailors, and fabric vendors.
Start with a vision
To make your own outfit from scratch, it is important to start with a well-defined vision. Before going to the market, you need to have a basic idea about the colour, texture of the fabric and the design.
"The fabric and embellishment markets in the city are vast and brimming with options, which can be overwhelming without a clear vision," remarked Sabera Sernabat, a Dhaka-based banker with a passion for fashion. Despite her busy schedule, Sabera enjoys creating her own outfits from scratch.
"The beauty of making your own fabric lies in the personal touch. Even if others are using the same materials, you can create something unique, something that's distinctly yours," she explained.
While starting with a vision is ideal, many find inspiration after seeing the fabrics.
Farah Shiddiqua, an intern doctor at Ibn Sina Medical Hospital, shared, "I once visited New Market to buy basic chikankari fabric for a simple kurti. But when I found a slightly coarser version, I immediately envisioned it as a jacket and went with that idea."
Farah believes that going to the market with an open mind enhances her creativity.
The local market
The city boasts several key fabric hubs, including the iconic Islampur, New Market, and Mirpur 1 Shah Ali areas. Depending on where you live, you can choose the most convenient shopping destination.
Islampur is known for its extensive range of local and imported fabrics, making it a favourite among designers and retail sellers. While many shops specialise in wholesale, retail shoppers can also find smaller quantities. Additionally, a variety of embellishments are available to complete your designs.
New Market, a retail paradise, offers a vast selection of materials, laces, beads, and stones, perfect for adding unique touches to your creations.
Prices are quite reasonable too, with cotton starting at just Tk200 per yard, velvet from Tk350, silk from Tk450, and satin from Tk300. For those looking to save time, there are also pre-embroidered fabrics and materials adorned with intricate lacework.
However, if you are looking for handloomed fabrics like Khadi, Taat, Rajshahi Silk, you can check out Aarong, Aranya and some other boutique shops.
Tailoring and embellishment services are also readily available in New Market, making it a one-stop shop for all your fashion needs.
At Priyangon Shopping Centre in the New Market area, you can get the embroidery and zardosi work done on your outfits.
"I typically provide the artisans with my own embroidery and zardosi designs, but they also offer many templates if you don't have one," Farah added.
The cost of embellishments varies based on the design's intricacy and the fabric's texture. Embellishments on delicate fabrics like silk and organza are more expensive than those on simpler fabrics like cotton and linen.
The tailor
Pradip Kumar Shaha, owner of Anchol Tailors, noted that demand for custom-made outfits has dropped significantly due to busy lifestyles and the popularity of online shopping. However, some still enjoy the creative process.
"Many customers now bring reference photos, asking us to replicate them. We usually follow their requests, but for regular clients, if we know their measurements well, we often suggest modifications to enhance the fit," he explained.
Pradip also pointed out that while the demand for custom-made outfits may have waned, the appeal of tailored blouses (to be worn with saris) has remained steady.
"Blouses are one item where precise measurements are crucial, and no off-the-rack option can match the fit and comfort of a custom-tailored piece," he explained.
At his shop, the service charge of making a plain salwar kameez and blouse is Tk800 and Tk1,000 respectively. The prices are approximately two to three times more in Pink City Shopping Mall, and Banani Super Market.
Exploring your talent
Making your own outfits from scratch is how you tap into the fashion designer within, giving your creativity a chance to shine before the world.
Mehnaj Ahmed's journey into fashion design began with a simple, heartfelt gesture—designing clothes for her elder sister. The overwhelming appreciation and support she received inspired her to take a leap, and in 2022, she launched her online fashion label, "Swerve."
"Creating something from scratch, filled with passion and love, is a truly beautiful process. I'm always thrilled to see my models and customers wearing my designs," Mehnaj expressed.
We also spoke with notable designers, including Sahar Rahman and Humaira Khan, uncovering a shared passion in their stories.
As Sahar puts it, fashion was always in their blood. The sister duo (Sahar Rahman and Amana Rahman) always loved dressing up in their own designs, in beautiful feminine palettes.
"Amana and I used to design our own outfits since we were teenagers and surprisingly, our designs never failed to bring us extra attention. I knew I wanted to be a fashion designer from a very young age," Sahar said.
Humaira Khan, the visionary behind the brand Humaira Khan, echoed this sentiment. "I was always praised for my outfits, and my designs were ahead of their time," she said proudly.
In 1989, while still in university, Humaira was frequently asked by friends to design clothes, leading her to launch her brand 'Anokhi,' which marked the start of her illustrious career in fashion.
