From Tibet Snow to primer - The transformation of bridal makeover
TBS delves into the changing landscape of bridal beauty, tracing the shift from traditional practices to the modern era of beauty parlours and solo artists, reflecting the evolving trends in makeup, hairstyles and overall bridal aesthetics
Amina Khatoon (101) got married at the age of nine during the British era. She wore a red saree with golden thread work. Her arms were adorned with two golden bangles.
In that era, underage brides like Amina embraced the tradition of wearing red silk sarees and abundant gold jewellery. The practice, initially prevalent among Hindus, later extended to Bangali Muslims.
Adornments included sandalwood or kumkum on the forehead, alpona on some parts of the cheeks, fragrant oil for hair, a colourful bindi, alta (red dye), and bangles.
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Of fragrant oil, satin ribbons and fresh flowers
Until the 1970s, brides adorned themselves with fragrant oil during the British era. Perfumes and body sprays were scarce, making fragrant oil essential. Hair, tied with brightly coloured satin ribbons, underwent things like oil application, braiding, and twisting at the back. However, the excess oil led to damage and often spelt the end for many wedding sarees.
The trend of excessive oil application continued until the early 1980s. The era of parlours then replaced braids with sizable buns, led by icons like Sharmila Tagore and Babita. Evolving bun styles, including ring buns and incorporation of flowers, marked the transition. Subtle adornments with flowers within the bun gained popularity in the 20th century.
Inspired by actress Moushumi's wedding pictures, the trend shifted to adorning hair with hanging flowers, while the 21st century saw a surge in hairpins adorned with artificial flowers. Since 2020, the spiral hairstyle and the return of raw flowers have replaced artificial flowers. Simpler styles, like open hair, light braids, and various buns, now prevail. The emphasis is on simplicity, avoiding excessive use of hair spray or creating puffs. Occasionally, 'hair extension' adds extra volume.
Winged eyeliners, fake moles and stuffed buns
Even 20 years ago, brides were traditionally dressed at home, often by skilled sisters-in-law or sisters. Until the 1970s, brides were adorned with snow, powder, kohl, lipstick, and sandalwood by a relative, concluding the styling within half an hour.
During that era, kohl for eye makeup was prevalent, making the bride's eyes appear larger. The 1980s introduced eyeliners and mascara, influenced by Indian and Dhallywood films. Actresses like Suchitra Sen and Kobori were known for winged eyeliners, while others like Rojina and Shabnam embraced features like fake moles, large hair partings, and unique blouses.
Anwara Setu, known for her elegance, took the responsibility of dressing up brides around her. After her marriage in 1994, she slowed down for a while. However, she has now resumed the pleasure of working in their own parlour with her daughter. As a result, she has extensive experience and knowledge in the makeup and styling of Bengali brides, especially in terms of attire and accessories.
She says, "We have always been inspired by Indian actresses. Now, we are also following Pakistani fashion trends."
Remember the flower-shaped makeup boxes?
The makeup box used to contain everything like lipstick, face powder, blush, eyeshadow, all neatly divided. By pressing the bottom, the entire makeup box would unfold like a flower or open up in the shape of an English heart. This trend prevailed from the 1970s to the 2010s.
Previously, "Rouge" was used for rosy cheeks, and it was a small box with one colour. Regardless of skin tone, everyone applied the same colour. Lipstick was not as diverse as it is now. There were only a few colours available. However, bright or vibrant colours were preferred. Maroon, red, orange, and pink were common choices. Red was the most popular.
Glitter matched with saree
Back then, the trend for mehendi wasn't as prominent. Mehendi was applied a little on the day of halud. Instead, alta was used. Considered a symbol of a woman's fertility, auspiciousness, and marital happiness, Alta was applied on the feet, and mehendi was applied on the hands the day before the wedding.
Now, we have separate artists for mehendi. At that time, there weren't so many intricate designs. Mehendi was applied in round patterns on the hands and alta was applied on the feet.
Alongside the face, there were also drawings on the hands. It could be with kumkum, glitter, or something else.
The beginning of beauty parlours
Although the establishment of parlours in Dhaka predates this, the trend of going to parlours did not start until the 1970s. At that time, only actresses and women from affluent families used to avail beauty services. Going to the parlour for bridal makeup was not yet a common practice for ordinary girls outside of affluent families.
The first beauty parlour in Dhaka was started by Chinese citizen Carmel Chang Liu Shai. It was named "Mayfair" and was initiated in 1965. Around the same time, beauty parlours from Hong Kong were also present in Dhaka.
Later, Lee Beauty Parlor was established, mainly run by Chinese individuals in the country. After independence, the first Bangali to open a parlour was Jerina Azgar, who opened "Living Doll Beauty Parlour '' in the 1970s.
"In the 1980s, gradually, girls started becoming more interested in beauty parlours. In Dhanmondi, there were Mayfair, Razia Beauty Parlor in Eskaton, and Hong Kong Beauty Parlor in Gulshan," said Anwara Setu.
Initially, bridal makeup and hair cutting—these two services were primarily provided in women's parlours. The practice of beauty care in parlours began around the 2000s. Before that, beauty care was mainly done at home.
In the 1990s, the rise of beauty parlours in Bangladesh, such as Persona, Farzana Shakil's Makeover Salon, Women's World, and Red Beauty Parlor and Salon, marked the beginning of a new trend in urban culture.
However, the spotlight has now shifted to individual artists like Gala Makeover and Salon, Zahid Khan Bridal Makeover, Elegant Makeover and Fashion, Salon 31, Splendor by Anika Bushra, and Bespoke Makeup Artistry.
Beauty-conscious individuals now seek various services, from nail care to head-to-toe massages, facials, hair masks, and oil treatments, several months before the wedding. The makeup scene has evolved from Tibet Snow and powder to the current era of foundation, concealer, primer, and vibrant eye makeup, with colourful touches of kohl, mascara, and eyeliner.
Previously, brides underwent traditional makeup, but now products seamlessly blend with the skin. Customers provide preferences for their look, considering attire and desires, resulting in increased costs.
In the 1990s, a makeup cost of Tk5,000 was common, but today, bridal makeup can range from Tk20,000 to Tk30,000, and top artists may charge fifty to sixty thousand Taka, marking the the shift towards personalised and higher-cost makeup services.
