Into the world of timeless pearls and local brands

The history of pearls is rich and can be traced back to ancient civilisation. Symbolising wealth and royalty, pearls became more affordable in the 20th century. This was made possible by the development of pearl cultivation techniques. 

These cultured pearls are produced by inserting a nucleus into oysters or mussels and then it would be cultivated – this revolutionised the pearl industry. 

Farida Afroz, a 45-year-old homemaker thinks pearls are a timeless piece of jewellery. "I have always had a thing for pearls and grew up admiring my mother's pearl collection, which was later passed down to me," she shared. 

She continued, "I intend to uphold my family's tradition, passing down the heirlooms to my daughter and granddaughters."

In Bangladesh, pearls have become everyday fashion statements across all social strata. Even though it's more accessible now, pearls have a special "appeal" of sophistication, one can say. The credit goes to local brands that have seamlessly blended tradition and the timeless beauty of pearls.

Many have embraced pearls by pairing them with, well pretty much everything – starting from traditional attires to casual outfits. Photo: Glued Together.

Then there are the imitation pearls, more popular among the younger generations. This adds a touch of glamour within a budget. A 19-year-old Sumaiya Islam said, "I love pairing pearls with tops and denim as it helps me achieve that chic and effortless look." 

Of "pearly" local brands

Local brands have found innovative and creative ways to incorporate imitation pearls in their designs. For example, Aarong has a collection of clutches, tote bags, shoes, bangles, hair accessories, and even footwear that are embellished with pearls. 

Kather Molat is an online page that sells traditional handmade jewellery integrating imitation pearls in their designs. Photo: Kather Molat.

Another popular local brand, 'Kather Molat,' is an online page that sells traditional handmade jewellery integrating imitation pearls in their designs.
 
Kather Molat started their journey during the Covid lockdown period. The two siblings Mizra Johra Islam and Mizra Ashia Islam turned their passion for DIY handcrafted jewellery pieces into a business opportunity. 

"Our journey has evolved over the years and we have developed a particular fondness for white pearls, creating imitation pearl ornaments," said Ashia.

She continued, "Our primary target customers are women seeking affordable alternatives to real pearls, and this group includes students and budget-conscious individuals who appreciate unique jewellery, and desire carrying the elegance of pearls without the hefty price tag."

Ashia explained the different qualities of imitation pearls. "Well, the most affordable options are made from plastic, typically manufactured in China, and are commonly found in markets like New Market, Chowk Bazaar and Gawsia," she said.  

Meanwhile, "higher-end imitation pearls are crafted from glass, durable plastic shells, and have a pearlescent coat offering a more polished and refined appearance," she added.   

When asked about the price difference between imitation and real pearls, Ashia replied, "The price gap between real pearls and imitation pearls varies with quality. For instance, a real pearl top might start from Tk100 while an imitation version could be as low as Tk20."

However, "sometimes, high-quality fake pearls can surpass the price of cultured but unrefined pearls. The spectrum of cost and quality in the pearl market is broad and fascinating," she added.  
 
Nianzu BD, an online business page that sells imported pearls shared, "We mostly sell freshwater pearls which are cultured pearls." 

When asked about the origin and the price range of these pearls, they added, "We mostly import our pearls from China, and the price range depends on the quality of the pearls. For example, South Sea pearls and Japanese Mikimoto Pearls are some of the most expensive pearls out there. 

But in Bangladesh, most of the pearls sold are fresh sea pearls."

However, they noted that it is hard to catch the difference between fresh sea pearls and South Sea pearls without an expert's eye. When purchasing such a precious piece, it is important to go to a verified seller.

How to identify pearls 

Kather Molat noted that the quality of imitation pearls will impact the longevity of its colour. Regardless, Kather Molat recommends handling and storing pearl accessories carefully to ensure they last as long as possible and maintain their shine.
 
Regarding the distinction between real and imitation pearls, Kather Molar mentioned some ways to identify them. 

"One common test is to scratch the pearl against glass; a real pearl will leave no residue while a fake one will leave a white mark. However, high-quality imitation pearls may pass this test, making a fire test necessary" 

"The second method, the fire test, is quite simple. Real pearls do not melt or decay when exposed to fire unlike fake pearls" 

However, with the advances in imitation pearl manufacturing, some fake pearls are now fire-resistant making them almost indistinguishable from real pearls, and can even weigh the same. Hence, the line between counterfeit and genuine pearls has never been more blurred than it is now. 

A versatile statement

There is a clear indication of demand for pearls in the market – and now with online businesses taking on pearls, more and more people are interested in it. 

Moreover, the versatility of the pearls also helped it become a wardrobe staple for many Bangladeshi women across generations. Many have embraced pearls by pairing them with, well pretty much everything – starting from traditional attires such as shari and salwar kameez to casual outfits such as tops and denim, and even business suits. 

Samia Hossain, a mother of two in her late 30s, living in the United Kingdom for 10 years now, said, "I often wear pearl necklaces, earrings, or even bracelets with my formal outfits and find that they greatly enhance my overall look while simultaneously resonating with my style."

Nusrat Noshin, who is a recent graduate and a young professional in her 20s, said, "Whether it's a simple kurta or a dress, wearing pearl jewellery adds a touch of elegance to any outfit, and that's exactly why I am a huge fan of pearls. It boosts my confidence, makes me feel classy, and helps me express my unique style and personality."  

Local brands like Aarong even offer fresh cultured pearl jewellery, with colour options that veer away from the classic white such as pink, lavender and golden.

However, classics never fall out of grace. Kaniz, an employee at Aarong shared, "When it comes to popularity, the classic white pearls continue to reign as the most favourite and the bestseller among our customers of all ages."