The watch doctors are disappearing

The ancient history and heritage of Bengal are scattered throughout the nooks and crannies of Old Dhaka. In the countless unnamed lanes and bylanes, time seems to be at a standstill. 

The vestiges of the Nawabi era, old mansions and ancient architecture all bear the patina of time. Seeking this bygone era, I ventured into the heart of Old Dhaka – Sadarghat – in search of those who preserved time. 

Some call them 'watch repairers' but I prefer to think of them as 'time restorers.'

Sharadindu Bandyopadhyay's 'Pather Kanta' published in 1934, features the detective Byomkesh Bakshi, whose client, Ashutosh Mitra, is seen using a pocket watch. In fact, this very pocket watch saved Ashutosh's life from the silent killer, a gramophone needle. 

This popular story is evidence of Bangalis using watches in the 1930s – somewhat like compass meters, often accompanied by a gold chain and a large display.

The 'pocket watch' was not affordable — and thus it became the embodiment of the owner's social status.

Fast forward to the 1960s and 1970s. 

In affluent and middle-class families, it was customary at Bangali weddings to gift the groom a wristwatch. In the 1990s (more affordable by then) watches were a popular gift choice. 

But the times changed – new professions emerged and some became obsolete. However, some people clung to the past as 'time' was their sole knowledge, profession and passion. 

Many of Sadarghat's watch repairers are among those people — clinging to the past as that is all they have known of life. There, we met and spoke to Mohammad Selim, a veteran watch repairer. 

This is not just their livelihood; it's a place of love, and there is joy in restoration. When they speak of their work and revival of clocks, their lips curve into a smile. Watch repairmen have become somewhat unnecessary in today's world of mobile phones and smartwatches. Their days pass in hunger. 

Tale of a watch repairmen

Mohammad Selim started repairing watches in 1984 when he was just 15 to support his family. Later he got married. His family of six never had to go hungry – thanks to his work.  

Just as people see doctors when they fall ill, they visit watch repairers when their watches malfunction. Watch repair shops were ubiquitous in Dhaka and the relationships between the watch owners and repairers were often special. 

A decade ago, a naval officer brought a gold watch for repair to Sadarghat. After visiting several shops, Mohammad Salim finally got the job of repairing the gold watch. 

Salim had never seen such a beautiful watch in his life. It took a long time to repair the watch for Tk8,000. When he was about to return the repaired watch to the owner, a wild desire arose in the watch repairman's heart. He thought, no matter how difficult it would be, he would buy the watch. 

It wasn't just because the watch was made of gold but because it was old, its value had multiplied a thousand times in the eyes of the watch repairman. He was ready to sell all his possessions and offered up to Tk500,000 for the watch. 

The owner was not ready to sell even at that cost. As he reminisced, Salim's eyes filled with nostalgia and a peculiar longing. 

Mohammed Salim's watch repair shop was different from other ordinary shops. It looked like a small square box with a glass enclosure on all sides. There was no roof. 

Inside this box-like glass enclosure were watches with red black, and white straps. Along with leather and plastic straps, there were also steel watches. 

Salim still relies on this floating shop under the open sky for his living. 

Not only Salim but many other watch repairmen had their workshops in this area near Collegiate School. People from Sadarghat would come to these watch repair shops, opposite the Bata showroom. 

The watch repairmen had a long-standing relationship with the local people. So, they would often sit or stand in front of their floating shops and chat. If someone didn't come to the shop for a week, people from the area would inquire about them. 

Photo: Syed Zakir Hossain

In the age of mobile phones

When mobile phones arrived in Bangladesh about two decades ago, the watch repairmen at Sadarghat were still making a living by repairing watches. It was after 2010 that the use of watches saw a decline. Those who were new to the profession of watch repair began to realise that they couldn't go far with this trade. 

In effect, the number of floating shops in Sadarghat started to decrease. Some people of the floating shops remained, abandoned and empty, waiting for their owners to come back. 

"There's no longer the same market for watches. With the advent of mobile phones, the demand for watches has decreased. Our business has also declined. But I can't do any other work besides watch repair. I'm too old to learn a new skill now," said Salim.  

He continued, "Elderly people still use watches. They come here more or less. I repair about 15-20 watches a day. That's how I'm getting by slowly." 

Through scorching sun or pouring rain, the watch repairmen stationed near Dhaka Collegiate School at Sadarghat, have been repairing clocks and watches every day, braving the weather. This is not just their livelihood; it's a place of love, and there is joy in restoration. 

When they speak of their work and revival of clocks, their lips curve into a smile. If they don't hear the ticking of minutes and seconds, they feel a sense of void in life. 

Matiur Rahman Matin, a watch repairman and a resident of the area, spent 40 years of his life working on clocks. He's well over 70 years old now. People know him as one of Dhaka's oldest watch repairmen. Many people come from far and wide to find Matin in Sadarghat. 

I too wanted to meet this oldest watch repairman. But after inquiring, I learned that he was gravely ill. In my two visits to the area in 15 days, I could not meet 'Uncle Matin' as popularly known in Sadarghat. 

He is also dubbed as the ' solution to all watch problems.'

Matiur Rahman Matin and others like him repaired time for four decades. But time did not wait for them instead it moved past them. 

Watch repairmen have become somewhat unnecessary in today's world of mobile phones and smartwatches. Their days pass in hunger. The watch doctors are also disappearing.