Dhaka embraces rural charm at Jatra Utshob

A joyous atmosphere filled the air as evening settled over Dhaka's Suhrawardy Udyan. From 1- 7 November, this part of the city transformed into a vibrant village fair. Suhrawardy's open grounds came alive each night with the essence of rural life—traditional foods, handicrafts, toys, and lively chatter. Even the city's busiest workers took time to escape their daily routines and join the festivities.

The gathering of all these people had one common cause: The 'Jatra Utshob' festival. Organised by the Bangladesh Shilpakala Academy, this week-long celebration delighted lovers of folk culture at the onset of winter.

Among the festival-goers was Ismail Hossain, a man in his fifties from Islamapur in Dhamrai, Dhaka. On 7 November, he arrived early, securing a front-row seat well before the jatra (folk theatre) began. Despite the long distance and the gruelling traffic, his face radiated joy.

"I've been a jatra enthusiast since childhood," he shared. "Wherever there's a jatra performance, I try to attend."

Ismail believes that Jatra lost its charm when performances were restricted to indoor venues in recent years. However, with the government now permitting open-air Jatra performances, he is more excited than ever.

"Though it used to be held inside the Shilpakala Academy, it never felt the same. Jatra is meant to be performed on an open stage under the sky. This open-air jatra has rekindled our passion. Watching it in the crisp winter air feels magical," Ismail added.

Selim Hossain, a grocery store owner from Kamrangirchar, came to see Jatra after many years. Originally from Bogura, Selim had once been a regular at rural jatra gatherings before moving to Dhaka for work. 

"I closed my shop early today to be here," he said, surrounded by friends. "It feels amazing to rediscover those old village memories. If such events happened more often, we rural folks would feel truly at home."

The final performance on the closing day was a rendition of the historic play "Nawab Sirajuddaula" by the "Jatrabandhu Opera" troupe from Mymensingh's Kewatkhali. In the green room, Abul Hashem, the troupe's director and actor portraying 'Golam Hossain,' prepared for the show. 

A native of Magura, Hashem had relocated to Mymensingh to pursue his love for jatra. He beamed with pride, saying, "This festival marks a huge victory for our cultural scene. Even though we were registered with the Shilpakala Academy long ago, the essence of jatra had nearly vanished in recent years. For years, performing indoors stifled our art."

With renewed government support, rural Jatra artists are feeling hopeful once again. Over the years, many have left the profession due to a shortage of performance opportunities.

"If jatra can once again be performed outdoors like this time, and if it's given regular performance space, this treasured art of Bangladesh might find its strength again," added Hashem.

Before the final performance, Syed Jamil Ahmed, the Director-General of the Bangladesh Shilpakala Academy, stepped on stage and addressed the audience. "As we envision a new Bangladesh, we want to ensure that our land's music, drama, and cultural performances flourish everywhere," he said. 

"Our art, poetry, music, and drama inspire us, touching both our personal and social lives. We want jatra, music, and all our art forms to be at the heart of our communities, igniting inspiration."

Academy's Theater and Film Department Director Fayez Zahir and Jatra Shilpi Unnayan Parishad President Gazi Belayet also spoke at the event. As the festival concluded, the Shilpakala Academy Director-General presented commemorative posters to each troupe leader.

By 6 PM, the open stage at Suhrawardy Udyan was packed, as hundreds gathered to watch the tragic tale of the last independent Nawab of Bangla. Against a backdrop of loyalty and betrayal, Nawab Sirajuddaula unfolded, telling the tale of the young Nawab's struggle against the British colonial forces, who would eventually conquer Bangla with the help of Siraj's associates. With Siraj's defeat at the Battle of Plassey, British rule began its long chapter over Bangla. This was the story brought to life in the performance.

The festival's theme, "If you fear, you're done; if you stand up, you are Bangladesh," resonated with the audience. The jatra performances began with "Agontuk" by Surobhi Opera on 1 November, followed by "Anarkali" by New Shamim Natyasangstha on 2 November, "Megher Dhaka Tara" by Bangabani Opera on the third day, "Lalon Fakir" by Narayan Opera on 4 November+, "Apon-Dulal" by Bondhu Opera on 5 November, and "Phoolan Devi" by Sharmin Opera on the 6th.