Sakra’s Tanti Bazar: A love letter to the jewellery of Old Dhaka
Curated by Tahmina Shaily, the exhibition tells the stories behind each piece of jewellery and celebrates the artisans who craft them
In a typical exhibition, it's the eyes that are first greeted by the art or artefacts on display. But stepping into Dwip Gallery in Dhanmondi, I was immediately greeted by the familiar scent of a jeweller's workshop.
The air carried a distinct metallic tang mixed with the earthy aroma of molten wax and tools, signalling that I had arrived at the right place.
The exhibition, aptly named 'Sakra's Tanti Bazar,' brings the jewellery traditions of Old Dhaka to life in a way that feels both nostalgic and refreshing.
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Curated by Tahmina Shaily, founder of Shoilee, a Bangladeshi jewellery brand, this exhibition is not just about displaying jewellery; it's about telling the stories behind each piece and celebrating the artisans who craft them.
The exhibition has drawn a diverse audience, from researchers and university students to influencers and people from various sectors, to the world of jewellery-making and Tanti Bazar's traditions since 10 October and will continue until 19 October.
The exhibition itself is a love letter to Tanti Bazar, one of Dhaka's most historic and renowned hubs for handcrafted jewellery.
One visitor commented, "The narrow space of Dwip Gallery makes it more like Puran Dhaka's streets." And I agree with that.
The exhibition pictures the evolution of the jewellery-making process. Shaily, who has been working with artisans for over a decade, has carefully documented the changes over the years.
"I have a collection from the last 13 years," she said. "Shop formats have changed, and where once jewellery was entirely handmade, now machines have taken over."
This shift from handmade to machine-produced jewellery is starkly visible in the gallery, where both old and new designs sit side by side. Visitors are invited to reflect on this transformation as they view photos, sketches, and finished products, many of which were created by the same artisans.
But it's not just about jewellery. Shaily has also highlighted the culinary diversity of Old Dhaka. While many associate the area with biryani, the exhibition shows that there's so much more, including a variety of vegetarian options.
"We wanted to highlight this diversity," she said, noting that it mirrors the diversity of craftsmanship within Tanti Bazar.
At its core, 'Sakra's Tanti Bazar' is about bringing attention to the intricate, labour-intensive process of jewellery-making. Shaily explained that each piece of jewellery requires a team of 4-5 artisans.
One crafts the design, another shapes it, someone else applies the colours, and yet another does the enamelling. "When people learn about this process, they'll realise it's not just another product—it's an art," she said.
This art is under threat, however. The influx of cheap, mass-produced jewellery from India and China has led to a decline in demand for local, handmade pieces.
"It takes 7-8 days to make a single 'bala' (bangle). The cost of labour becomes high, and it's difficult to sell these items," she explained.
The exhibition also showed some recreation of old jewellery designs. Pieces like the 'frame fash' design from the 1980s were once popular jewellery and a symbol of love between husbands and wives.
Shaily elaborated on how every goldsmith in Bangladesh used to make these designs, but they've since been replaced by the glitz of Dubai's fancy chains.
Through this exhibition, she hopes to revive the old craft and show the capabilities of the artisans of Tanti Bazar.
And then there are the photos. A total of 250 photographs line the gallery walls, capturing everything from the jewellery-making process to the daily lives of the artisans. The exhibition feels like a novel where the setting is more important and drives the characters.
One photo series particularly stands out—it showcases the 'Nehara' profession, an old craft where workers manually extract gold and silver from dust and dirt, a practice passed down through generations.
The exhibition also touches on the harmony between different communities in Old Dhaka.
"Hindus and Muslims live and work together here, and we've tried to showcase that too," Shaily stated.
In the end, 'Sakra's Tanti Bazar' is a cultural experience as it would have been more visually satisfying if some of the photos were in bigger frames or sizes. But the objective of appreciating the artistry has well been put out.
Shaily's plans go beyond just the gallery.
For the final day of the exhibition she's organising a walking tour within Tanti Bazar itself. The tour will begin at Malitola Park and wind through the narrow streets past the jewellery factories which are the backbone of the local industry.
"We want people to explore Tanti Bazar in depth, not just see it," she told us. The day will end with a vegetarian lunch and a small souvenir gift from the brand Shoilee to mark the occasion.
For anyone interested in the history of jewellery, the evolution of craftsmanship, or simply the beauty of Old Dhaka, 'Sakra's Tanti Bazar' is a must-see, better if you can join the walk through the actual Tanti Bazar on the last day.
